monsterpiece42

Oh, good to know. I appreciate the info!

What’s AMP and why is it undesirable?

I work in a PC repair shop and I run my tool stick on this way. By the way, you can just put a folder in your Ventoy and store non-iso files so you can have portable apps and so on.

• Acronis (can clone to reduced size drives unlike clonezilla which can only clone to equal or bigger)
• MemTest86 & MemTest86+ (+ is the FOSS one. Recommend both because sometimes one won’t work)
• Don’t forget that you can put other stuff in a Ventoy, not just .isos. I have shitlods of utilities in a folder beside all the .isos.
• Tons more but I just woke up for work. I will make this list much longer when I get there of I can remember to

Edit: ADHD did ADHD things. Here’s some more stuff. A lot of it is Windows-centric because that’s what we specialize in. ISOs:

• PC Unlocker (Windows password remover, paid)
• Gandalf’s Windows Preboot (similar to Hirans, but modern. Paid.)

Utilities:

• CrystalDiskInfo (SMART checks and more on SSDs)
• CrystalDiskMark (SSD benchmark)
• FastCopy (Windows copy utility. Free)
• HDTunePro (v5.00 specifically. After this, license binds to a single machine. HDD SMART checks, benchmark, secure erase, sector scans, and more.)
• OCCT (CPU, GPU, Memory, PSU, and other checks and stress tests. Top-tier tool.)
• F6 Drivers (drivers for NVMe detection on some laptops)
• Spacesniffer (visual representation of disk utilization. Similar to WinDirStat, but looks nicer/runs quicker imo. Free.)

Oh right on, I didn’t realize rsync was just a differential copy–thays dope! I hope I didn’t come off paranoid lol… I work in a PC repair shop (mostly Windows machines) and I am not used to the average consumer giving a cleaver answer about backups and drive maintenance.

Congratulations again on the new machine. Hope it treats you well!

So about that. I don’t use rsync, but any regular bulk reads/writes will wear an SSD quickly!

What I meant was, if your drive(a) isn’t new with the new build, I would recommend it. I’ve been seeing failure rates on SSDs with hard use (like weekly backups) at only the 3-5 year mark. And usually when they die its all at once.

This is your answer, OP.

As a backup you can have a VM with Windows and the full apps if you need them (like Access for instance).

I like your build a lot. Don’t forget to move your OS to another drive via clone or something occasionally… Your old drive will wear out eventually. If it’s SSD, they often just work until they just don’t, so it’s not like the old days when an HDD would just slow down and give you a warning.

Cheers!

What are your needs? I work in a PC shop and answer this question everyday lol

Could be. I do have some significant Thinkpad experience (going back to the IBM days) and I do know that they will not alter the model number regardless of what’s in the machine, but you can pull a build sheet from their website with the serial number. Do you know if your HPs could have had this happen? Was your distributor HP or elsewhere? (Not hating, just curious!)

Capacity loss over time is a decent idea. The 2nd Gen machine has an 11th Gen chip, vs 10th Gen in the Gen 1, and quiet possibly is able to burn more power quicker as well. Thinkpad power consumption is also definable in the BIOS or Vantage software for many of them, so those settings all could vary.

Normally I’d be happy to help troubleshoot this sort of thing but frankly I’m not sure OP was looking to chat.

You should contact Lenovo and let them know their spec sheets are wrong. Because they say exactly what I just said.

Not my problem if you have aftermarket modifications to them.

I have a T580 and a T15g2 and the T580 is 100% a more rugged build–not even close.

The T15 is way lighter, so maybe that feels like stiffness?

G1s do not just “have brighter screens” than Gen 2. Those are spec-able options.

G1 had three screens, 250nit, 300nit, 500nit (4k only)

G2 had three screens, 300nit, 300nit, 600nit (4k only)

Both have the same 57wh battery. Not sure what you’re talking about there.

I had the same laugh. So tone-deaf.

I mean it pretty clearly says that User insights will be put into development and user benefit is first.

…will that happen? Well. Probably not. But I hope so.

As other have said, please do an SSD swap.

If it’s “unbearably slow” that is an indication of drive failure especially on old boot drives. Linux will not fix this.

After that, Cinnamon if they like windows. Gnome if they don’t or don’t care.

Pop os is a great “fire and forget” OS for normal users. I work in a computer shop and have seen tons of not-knowledgable people run it without issues.

Good, keep the prices low for the smart people who do.

That’s the name of the program. You can search it and it’ll pop right up. It is now owned by Cooler Master.

Once you download it, you can run either the CPU Srress test or the Linpack test (this is for Intel mostly as it is their proprietary test) and it’ll run while looking for math or WHEA errors.

While you’re doing science, I would also recommend doing a RAM test with memtest86+. You download the .iso and make a bootable drive, and boot into it. Both RAM and CPU can make similar weird failures so checking both is a decent idea.

Partially dead CPUs can absolutely still POST and boot. I work in a PC repair shop and see it all the time. Everything will work totally “fine” and you’ll get weird errors here and there similarly to failing RAM. You have to run a dedicated CPU test like the ones in OCCT (Windows-based, don’t lynch me) or similar to see if you’re getting WHEA or other errors.

The reason for this is that a lot of CPUs have built in redundancy to get around having imperfect silicon, and sometimes that is enough to make the system still work, but not be quite “right”.

The good news is, if you are producing such errors, you usually have a 3yr warranty on most CPUs and the OEM will RMA them for you.

This sounds like it was strictly the fault of the USB load. If you make a UEFI USB (you should use Ventoy, it’s great btw) all you would need to do is shut off Secure Boot and install.

Most bootable drives don’t support Secure Boot. You turn it off, do the install, and turn it back on if you want it. I personally just leave it off.

Outside of those caveats everything you described is industry-standard stuff. Nothing to do with Lenovo.

I work in a decent-sized computer repair shop and this is a very accurate representation of what the average user knows.

Just in case anyone thinks this is over the top.

Hey there. I run Linux on my daily but also work in a Windows-centric PC repair shop.

“Official” answer: You can move your key over to a new mobo by signing in to Windows with a Microsoft account, installing your new hardware, and activating Win 11 through the Settings->Activation->Troubleshooting (button)->“I recently changed hardware”. And that will pull your key back down from your account. But it does lock you into an account.

“Unofficial” answer: you can absolutely update to Win 11 on old hardware. The easiest way is to boot a Win 11 iso in Ventoy. That works fairly often. You can alternatively edit the installer to not do the TPM check in the installer, which you can search for guides for online/YouTube.

Alternatively: you can hop on g2a, kinguin, etc and buy Windows keys cheap.

To be clear I know this is all bullshit, but it’s options. Hope this helps!